Madagascar
Scootering Around Nosy Be
There are two things about visiting islands across the world that I love the most:
- The perfect excuse to order cocktails.
- Exploring the island on a scooter.
After arriving on Madagascar’s most premier island, Nosy Be, we had quickly ticked of number 1 and by day 2 we were about to tick off number 2.
Hiring a scooter in Madagascar is not quite as regimented as I have experienced in different islands around the world – in fact the arrangement seems so casual it is almost alarming…
After a perfect nights sleep at Le Coucher du Soleil we walked down to Ambatoloaka’s main street, where tourists can find everything their travelling little hearts desire – from pineapples to tacky souvenirs, from provocatively dressed women to quads, scooters and any other kind of ride…
I can’t recall the name of the ‘company’ we hired our ride from, (don’t worry, it was a scooter – not a provocatively dressed woman), but all we had to do was approach one of the shops that had a few ‘demo’ scooters out front and from there the helpful man called his ‘friend’ who delivered – likely his very own personal – scooter down to us. We filled out one of the typical ‘Madagascar tourist forms’ that you often find at hotels across the country; asking for your name, passport details, and other relevant information such as your parents names; and agreed upon Ar25000 (8 euros) per day.
We paid for four, exchanged phone numbers in case we decided to extend our hire and hit the road. It was really that simple. (Almost too simple).
With a scooter, a full tank, and some fresh pineapple we were ready to begin our exploration of the island.
We ended up having the scooter for six days around Nosy Be. If you are planning on travelling around Nosy Be I urge you to follow our lead on this one – exploring the island via scooter was cheap, fun and provided us with an abundance of flexibility.
A taxi-ride between two of Nosy Be’s towns alone will set you back Ar25000, and the island is much more beautiful out in the open with the wind in your hair then squinting through the smashed-up windscreens of the islands Taxi’s…
Some of the places I would recommend you visit on scooter would have to be:
- Befotaka: This was the first place that we visited, where we spent three perfect days at Anjiamarango Beach Resort. The Resort itself is completely spectacular with an infinity pool, fantastic restaurant and super friendly owner. It is also one of the best priced luxury options on the entire island and you will witness some of the most breathtaking sunsets.
- Manga Soa Lodge: As one of the islands most expensive and premier resorts it is not a budget option for accommodation but sure is a budget option for the island’s finest cocktails and facilities. We visited the resort as snoopy backpackers desperate to get a glimpse of the islands extreme glamour and for Ar15000 we were able to afford two incredible cocktails and an entire afternoon relaxing by the most incredible infinity pool I have seen.
- Mt Passot: The 329m mountain is the peak of Nosy Be and lies a mere 15km from Hell-Ville (although you must pass all the way around Ambatoloaka to access it). Although the island features countless ‘perfect spots’ to admire the sunset, Mt Passot provides a panoramic sunset over the islands coast and crater lakes. If you can drag yourself away from the beach for an evening I would highly recommend visiting the summit for sundown. Allow yourself about 45 minutes from Ambatoloaka.
- The Sacred Tree: Nosy be doesn’t have many tourist attractions but the Scared Tree is definitely a great, quick sight to see (not for from Helleville). The enormous Indian tree fills 100 square metres and is a lovely short tour which features a small museum and the visit concludes with a complimentary cinnamon tea. The best bit? The sunset. Arrive just before five and you will finish the tour in time to enjoy local tea with a view.
Some of the places that might not be worth visiting are:
- Fasrene Airport: We decided to visit the airport in hope that there would be the possibility to hire a little plane for an hour and explore the island from above. Unfortunately we only received weird looks and laughter…
- Andilana: This beach on Nosy Be’s northwest tip is said to be the islands ‘best beach’ by 2012 Lonely Planet but I have to disagree on this one. The ‘pearly white sand, with water that’s true turquoise and clear as gin’ may sound flawless but the pretentious resort and hotel, swarmed with tourist stalls and locals hassling you to buy massages, souvenirs and hair braiding kind of kills the mood. The island has many great beaches and after the restaurant attempted to charge us Ar40000 to sit on their beach chairs to drink the drinks we had just purchased from their own bar I was a little disappointed…